Monday, December 31, 2007

geezers

Since it time for Happy New Year greetings, and there might be someone singing Auld Lang Syne, I think it's time to tell you about old geezers. When I first arrived in India, I was introduced to the geezer in the bathroom. It's a hot water heater, actually quite an efficient way of not having to keep a huge tank of water heated up all the time. You can turn the switch on about an hour before bathing, and then fill up your bucket of water and use the small scooper to rinse yourself. Sometimes the bathrooms also come with shower heads, but the one I have now does not have that. Actually, my geezer isn't working, so I've gotten to experience plumbers in India. Last night, after getting to my new room for Phase III of this trip (my ayurvedic treatments) (Phase I is all the surroundings of the wedding; Phase II were my talks at the colleges) we turned on the geezer to test it out. After a couple of minutes of 'warm up time' it sounded like an explosion, and water was squirting all over the bathroom. A plumber was called, and arrived about 10:30 at night. He couldn't fix it, but he did know how to turn off the water and hook up a hose that would stop it from squirting. He didn't speak English, so the only message I understood was that he couldn't fix it right then. tonight, another plumber arrived. He spoke some English and was accompanied by two younger women in saris with gunnysack type shopping bags. It's the same kind of thing our dinners are carried to the apartment in, and I don't know everyone who works here yet, so I wasn't sure if it was dinner and a plumber, or what. Turns out his tools and spare parts were in the bags. He also didn't have the right part and because of the holiday, said it would be two days before he can get the right part. The women sat on the floor while he worked. Then he wanted to know when I would be in my room in two days because he has to drive 25 kilometers to get here and can't make the trip twice. I just talked to the man who lived in that apartment before me and he said his geezer also blew up. Mine is a new one. In the meantime, don't worry, I have a nice place to take my shower, and the treatments are fantastic! India continues to be a place of contrasts. More next year.

Friday, December 28, 2007

Ayurvedic massage

Yesterday, between the wedding, the lunch served on banana leaves, and the evening reception, there was several hours time, so I booked a 90 minute ayurvedic massage. The therapist was trained in Kerala, a state known for many resorts with this. After a head massage that involved tapping, among other things, she had me lie down on a mat and towel on the ground. After lying down for awhile and feeling the massage, I opened my eyes and realized that she was massaging me with her feet! She held on to a rope from above for balance and was going up and down and pounding in places -- all stokes I couldn't imagine doing so smoothly with feet. She was ambifootrous -- I peeked again and saw that she switched feet. The massage continued on a table using hands, then I spent time in a steam box. Others said there was an I love Lucy episodes about this long ago. The Raj experience and results are much more refined and enjoyable for me, but the price difference is comparative in the quality of results. It was a good experience.

The wedding ceremony


Thanks to Gretchen, the groom's cousin for posting the text to her blog and letting me copy it. Thanks also to the family for preparing beautiful folders and guides to the ceremony for those of us for which it was a new experience. I can't wait to add pictures. So far on this trip, I've taken almost 500 (that's compared to about 100 in the past 10 years). Lots to see and hear.

The Wedding Ceremony

The Hindu wedding ceremony is a sacrament contained in the Vedas (Ancient scriptures), from the Vedic period, which historians place between 5000-3000 BC. The wedding is performed to unite two souls so firmly that although their bodies remain separate, their souls unite and harmoniously become one. The couple embarks on a new life enriched by their union, with the blessings of God, their ancestors and elders, and the good wishes of all of their friends and relatives. The wedding takes place under the sacred altar known as the mandapam. The four pillars of the mandapam symbolize the four parents of the bride and groom and the vital role they have played in raising their children, sheltering them, and supporting them The ceremony embraces the five elements of nature: fire, earth, water, air, and light. The priest reads mantras from the Holy Scriptures in Sanskrit, the root of many modern Indian languages.


The Wedding Rites
Worship of the Goddess Gowri.
In a private ceremony before the start of the wedding, the bride performs a puja to invoke the blessings of Goddess Gowri, the icon of an ideal wife, for a long, prosperous, and happy married life.


Welcoming the Groom.
The groom is escorted to the mandapam by his family members and friends, and is received by the bride's parents. He prepares himself for the ensuing wedding rites by performing a purification ceremony. This ceremony begins with a prayer to Lord Ganesha, who is the remover of all obstacles and symbolizes truth and light. Also, during this ceremony the parents wash the groom's feet, just as they would wash the idol of the God in the temple; this symbolizes that they are acknowledging that on this important day, both bride and groom are manifestations of God.

Bond of Protection.
A sanctified thread dipped in turmeric water, which protects the wearer from harm and trouble, is tied to the right wrist of the groom with the blessings of Durga, the Goddess of Power.

Entrance of the Bride.
Before the bride enters, a cloth screen is held in front of the groom. The couple does not see each other until the auspicious moment, previously determined by Hindu astrology (for Mark and Smriti, this was 10:42 am, and Chuck's digital watch was the official time keeper). The maternal aunts and uncles of the bride escort her to the mandapam, followed by her female cousins and close friends. The bride carries a green coconut sprinkled with turmeric and kumkum (vermillino powder) to ward off evil spirits (in this case, Smriti was delivered sitting in a large red basket...too bad Mark missed seeing his wife-to-be in a basket; he was on the other side of the cloth!). She seats herself between her parents on the opposite side of the screen from the groom.

Giving the Bride away.
The bride's father offers her hand to the groom and declares that on this auspicious day he is giving his daughter away. The groom takes her hand and together they take a solemn oath in the presence of God to remain entirely devoted to each other. They declare that their hearts have been united and that they have become one.

Auspicious Time for the Wedding.
This is the most auspicious time of the wedding, when the bride and groom place a paste of jaggery, turmeric powder, and cumin on each other's heads; the three ingredients of the mixture represent their commitment to share their life through sweet and bitter times. The screen between the couple is then removed, signifying that the two separate individuals are now united in marriage.

Tying the Auspicious Thread.
The groom ties the Mangala Sutra (the auspicious thread with two gold pendants) around the bride's neck, making three knots. These knots symbolize the bonding between the two souls for a hundred years. The necklace that is created is the Indian version of the wedding ring; the bride will wear it always, so that people know she is married.

Shower of Rice.
The bride and groom shower each other with sanctified rice and flower petals, symbolizing a happy, prosperous, and peaceful married life. This is a fun competition, with the onlookers egging on both bride and groom to really let the other have it!

Taking of the Hand.
The couple holds hands and takes their vows in the presence of the Lord and of those assembled. The two then exchange garlands.

Knot of Commitment.
To symbolize their union, the loose ends of the bride and groom's garments are tied together in a knot, symbolizing a firm and lasting commitment.

Fire Altar.
A small fire is lit and the couple offers prayers to Agni, the God of fire, by placing butter and herbs into the flames. Agni dispels ignorance from our lives and leads us to eternal light and knowledge.

Seven Steps.
The couple takes seven steps. With each step the couple takes a vow. The first step to nourish each other and develop our physical, mental, and spiritual powers; the second step to grow together in strength, through the sharing of experiences, and by enabling each other to blossom infinitely; the third step to create and share great prosperity; the fourth step to commit to the pursuit of life long happiness, daily filling our hearts with joy, peace, and spiritual practice; the fifth step to care for and protect the integrity, honor, and well being of our family and friends; the sixth step to help in humanitarian work, lessen suffering, and promote human good; and, the seventh step to be united in life-long friendship and mutual devotion in all phases of our lives.

Auspicious Camphor Light.
The ceremony ends with the offering of good wishes to the bride and groom with lighted camphor.

Reverence to a Legendary Couple.
The priest points in the direction of the binary star, named after the legendary seer couple Vasishta and Arundhati, to whom the couple offers reference and prays for guidance.

Giving the Bride to the Groom's Family.
The bride's family offer gifts and blessings to the members of the groom's family. Chuck and Vicky sat together first to symbolize the Hakkarinen family, and then Gretchen sat to symbolize the Wegner family.

Blessing.
The priest and family bless the newly married couple.

Thursday, December 27, 2007

wedding festivities

Prior to the actual wedding ceremony, which is tomorrow, the close family gathers to bless the bride. That was yesterday. Since the groom's family is not from India, the bride's family did both blessings in their apartment. It starts about 7:30 in the a.m. with anointing of oil on the head (symbolic of keeping your cool), the marks in the center of the forehead with turmeric and the red paste, dried rice sprinkled in the hair for blessings, the offering of fire (purifies negative thoughts and offers the light of knowledge). Neither the bride or groom are left alone to sit for this ceremony. Smriti had her sister and 2 cousins with her. Each one gets the blessings from numerous family members (including me as the host mother). Then new clothes are give to each of them, symbolic of taking on a new life, and they are sent to shower and change. Mark sat with his best man for this.

Smriti then gets dressed up for about 1.5 hours -- her hair is plaited (braided) in a traditional way with flowers all the way up and down and special jewelry, and gorgeous sari, specific makeup that the mother applies, each with a meaning. She reappears as a beautiful princess! After a delicious lunch for about 25, Smriti has to change yet again for the application of henna.

That took several hours. The designs are elaborate. One arm represents the groom and has designs of ganesh (remover of obstacles) and a man on an elephant (a traditional way of a groom arriving) amidst many more designs. The other arm represents the bride. Her legs and feet also get decorated. The henna artist is a professional and very quick, using squeeze tubes similar (but much smaller) to ones I've seen used for cake decorating. The henna stays on until it dries, then flakes off.


Kirtana (sister) doesn't like the henna and didn't want to sleep in the bed with Smriti last night as it does chip off all night long. I had some small designs put on my hands at the evening celebration, and my bed was crunchy enough! The longer you leave it on, the darker the stain, so for a wedding two days away, Smriti wants it as dark as possible.

In the evening, there was a party for 100 at "Our Space" a nice facility with a dais and a dance floor, plus a buffet of Smriti's favorite "chaat" (snacks that were much more like a full meal -- lots of delicious food to sample from different parts of India's ethnic cuisine.) The dancing was fantastic! Nanda is the name for sticks; nandia is a dance using sticks. Each person has two sticks and there are dance steps and "stick tapping" rhythms that go with the music that has a wonderful beat. After every 5 taps everyone twirls around. The colorful saris and men's kirtanas make for a very graceful and lovely scene. There are many varieties of this dance. My description is quite basic, but about as much as I could learn in one night.

I also met many more gracious people yesterday from around India, plus Indians who live in the U.S. who have come and brought their children so they can experience an Indian wedding. There is much cultural pride and for good reason. I met a librarian at the end of the evening who is quite progressive and innovative and was a delight to share stories.

This afternoon, we arrived at the resort where the wedding will take place tomorrow morning for close family, and the reception for 300 will be tomorrow night. I'm going to go explore the beautiful grounds now.

Monday, December 24, 2007

how relative noise is

The levels of sound here are varied: different and the same as the U.S. Right now a dj downstairs is playing loud music. Earlier a nearby store had Santa there and you could hear Jingle Bells being played. I thought that the last few mornings were quieter, or perhaps I was getting used to the noise level. It really is quieter because it's holiday for a lot of people so traffic is less. Raja (Smriti's father) told me that when he was in Germany, it was so quiet that he had to turn on some quiet music for the background so he could sleep.

I shopped on my own today at a department store today, then took an autorickshaw home because I wasn't sure what street to take. It was only a few blocks away, but the driver had to do a u turn across 5 lanes of traffic so he charged me way more than normal. I tried bargaining with no success, but what he did for me was worth it, and I got home without accompaniment and that was a big step for me. Besides, 40 rupees is only a little over $1. Today everyone is doing last minute shopping for Christmas and everything else that is needed to finish up.

Time to celebrate Kirtana's 21st birthday.

Sunday, December 23, 2007

honoring the divine in all

In India, there are some deep traditions related to honoring the divinity in everyone and everything. Many examples of this are evident. Guests are treated as if they are god. Luckily, having conversations with God is totally allowed, and opportunities to talk more deeply with Jyotsna (Smriti's mother) about generational changes in India and the world, among other topics, has given me a deeper appreciation for those who pay attention outside of their own boundaries. Jyotsna is truly an example of this. Raja (Smriti's father) played the sitar for us last evening. His guru/teacher is one of the best in India and it listening to his music is transformational to awareness.

I was the recipient of another cultural tradition here: that of honoring the teacher. When I was the keynote speaker at Badruka College at the graduation ceremony of a workshop for librarians learning theory and practice of automated library systems, I was treated with tremendous respect. This was a wonderful interchange with some leaders in the library profession in Andhra Pradesh as well as the teacher of the workshop from Gujurat. Students, other faculty from the college, administrators, PhD students all participated. I was escorted in the taxi by leaders of the college who wanted more time to discuss important issues. When I gave one of the IT faculty a CD of our Focusing on Assignments project, he would not accept it until I autographed it. Several students also wanted my autograph and my "visiting card" (aka business card) after my talk. I also received flowers and a plaque from the director at the end of the ceremony. Not only do Indians honor their teachers, but they also give status to age, and in this situation, I have both. The kindness, appreciation, and understanding of my message made me very glad that this connection came up.

Yesterday I expressed interest in visiting temples while I'm here, so in a couple minutes it was arranged. Smriti's grandmother was the perfect person to take me. Temples can be anywhere in India. I have seen several interspersed with stores right in the middle of traffic. Apparently, that's very common. Jyotsna first took me to the family temple in a nearby neighborhood where we made offerings, received blessings and made a final arrangement for prasad for one of the wedding events. Then the god of money and I met face to face (my first experience using the ATM in India) and after a couple of tries where I used the wrong card, then used the wrong password, it worked and prosperity (thank you Lakshmi) and I are once again linked. Then, back home to be escorted by Grandma via a hired auto-rickshaw to the beautiful marble temple for Vishnu at the top of the hill. This was quite an experience on a busy holiday, lots of people climbing the steps barefoot to the various "stations" until reaching the inner chamber. The silence and power there were powerful. Grandma explained all the outside carvings of the 10 incarnations of Vishnu. I would have missed so much going on my own. We met someone in line from Poona who at the very end, found us again and asked to have our picture taken together. It was only at the end that it occurred to me that I was the only white person in the sea of people who were there.

The last temple was another auto-rickshaw ride away -- grandma's temple. She had a puja done in my honor at Durga's shrine. I could feel the effect immediately in my heart and Being. This temple was just off a busy highway, but while inside, we didn't even notice the sounds of traffic. Inside is a relative word, since it is open air and there is no physical barrier that would diminish the sounds.


Yesterday, we spent in the old city, the Charminar, the Muslim part of the city. It's a big shopping area -- everything from bangles to scouring pads to clothes. We got more accoutrements for the Mehendi celebration before the wedding. The feel in this part of the city was different, still colorful and busy, but perhaps a more serious tone. My connection to today's theme is this: it's the first time I've experienced beggars who were persistent. My "gods" were my family who flanked me on all sides to protect me as we moved through the streets.

May you also feel the divine in yourself and everyone.

Thursday, December 20, 2007

Experiencing the contrasts

From cold to warm, culture to culture, familiar food to the unknown, small town to huge city, and exchanging one form of comfort for a completely different kind of comfort, my first 3 days in India are full of life, stories, and experiences I'll only be able to touch on. I'm taking lots of pictures and will share them once I get back to the U.S. For now, imagining the sights and sounds will have to do. In the early morning, I awaken to the most interesting combination of sounds: Indian music wafting in from windows in the neighborhood, brooms sweeping, a cacophany of car and auto-rickshaw horns beeping, an occasional dog barking, motorcycles getting started, a rooster crowing, pigeons cooing, heavy apartment doors opening and closing, a man loudly calling "Abbay, abbay" and the general background of traffic.

I have heard so many stories I wish I had time to share from people on the airplane to Smriti's relatives to librarians I've met. For now, I'll try to share the themes. Many people are passionate when talking about the unity of life and how we are all the same at a basic level, no matter what the religion, race, nationality. The most unexpected people have read the Koran, the Bible, the Bhagavad Gita and come to the conclusion that it's the same God. That's all good on the broad level, but when discussion goes to more personal preferences, sometimes the differences and the obstacles we let them create become more apparent.

Everyone has been incredibly generous with me. Strangers on the airplanes (one from Nigeria, one from Secunderabad, India) have given me gifts. Ladies from India that I've only just met have invited me to come to their homes and visit. The family ties here extend way beyond family. There aren't services like ambulances, so everyone calls a family member, no matter how distant, if help is needed. The family I am staying with, in addition to coordinating 5 wedding events are helping numerous others, plus having guests including me. I am being included as part of the family.

For the wedding, we spent 2 days shopping for the wedding sari in nice shops. Everyone is involved in the decision: mother, father, me, Smriti, Mark, sister, aunt, grandma's youngest sister, grandpa. One learns a lot about both preferences and family relationships at the same time. It amazes me how smoothly the flow goes and how the decision in the end seemed to please everyone. There was a point where I wondered how this was going to happen, as everyone was describing his/her favorite at whatever store it had been, the clerks went and found that one last sari (out of hundreds) that we hadn't seen yet. It met everyone's desire and we all collectively seemed to sigh and say "Ah, this is it!" To see the bride and groom both light up confirmed it.

Today much of the family went shopping for Mark's sherwani and Smriti's traditional wedding jewelry. These shopping days usually go about 8-10 hours! Compromise and respect for each other dominate though, of course, there are many differences. I am loving the family and am amazed at the way they offer to fulfill my desires even before I ask most of the time. I'm being outfitted with even fancier saris than I brought - keep in mind there are 5 separate events that need gorgeous outfits. Jyotsna, Smriti's mother is very similar in size to me and she is also lending me some kurtas to wear. Generosity abounds, as does love. I feel so welcome.

While the family was out shopping, I went to Osania University to meet some librarians there, give an address to the library and information science students, go out to lunch with the directors of the program, hear more stories, and learn about how things are done in this country. There is much wisdom and understanding at the top level, and much patience for the contrasting values around. The Arts and Sciences building, which was built in 1935 and houses 28 different departments have an intricately carved domed ceiling, central open air courtyards, and two major inner stories to that courtyard. The 1st story is Hindu style arched architecture; the second story if Muslim style arched architecture. Talk about trying to incorporate the differences!

The pictures I took are still in my mind (and still in Patrick's camera -- thanks Patrick - it's working out great!). Outside the window of the Director of Continuing Education and the Library program a new canteen and technology center is being built. Right next to it are women doing laundry and laying it out to dry, people carrying buckets of water to the construction site to mix with sand, I think, privately owned bulls which have wandered onto the 1600 acre campus -- such simplicity and beauty and grace among such a variety of intellectual, physical and sustenance-producing events.


Tomorrow I am giving the valedictory address to a 5 day workshop for libraries who have been at a different college in Hyderabad for special training. I'm sure I'll miss some more shopping, but Grandpa says it's an everyday event, so don't worry. (He is a wise, wise, man in many ways.)

Blogs are supposed to be short, but I don't know how often I'll find the time and a computer to post, so I tried to cover some highlights. Til next time...

Friday, December 14, 2007

Coming with?


I feel like I am taking so many people to India with me in my heart. It's a big group adventure - friends, family, co-workers, store clerks, friends-of-friends. So, we'll leave the library and be on our way. I'm happy to have you with me!

Thursday, December 13, 2007

From Ice to...

In 2 days I'll be starting a journey to a different culture, climate, and time zone. I'm very, very excited!
Before I leave, I'd like you to see what the weather has done here in Mount Vernon, Iowa this week. It's the thickest ice storm I remember - beautiful and dangerous at the same time. The weight of the ice on the trees is causing many branches to break, and some trees to fall. The crackling conversations in the trees is magical as much as it is a precursor to falling ice. I took these photos on the first day of the storm, and on the 3rd day, after the sun shone through.